Who are Latvia’s Old Believers? A brief and general history
Yesterday, Joolee, a student from Alaska, and I walked through Riga’s Moscow District to reach the Grebenshchikov Old Believers’ House of Prayer. Old Believers represent a significant religious minority in Latvia, Eastern Europe, and Russia—and as Joolee explained during our walk, they also live in Alaska.
A Brief History of Old Believers
Understanding the history of Russia requires understanding the history of religion in Russia. While Old Believers constitute a minority in Russia today (approximately one million people), the reasons they maintain independence from the Orthodox Church—and consequently their unique traditions—emerge from fundamental questions of Russian national identity, both historically and contemporarily.
Old Believers (Starovery) are Orthodox Christians who reject the reforms introduced by Tsar Alexis Mikhailovich (1645-1676). These reforms were ostensibly designed to bring Russian liturgical practices into harmony with Greek traditions. The changes included making the sign of the cross with three fingers instead of two, altering the number of prostrations, changing tonal patterns of chanting, and modifying the quantity of bread used at the offertory. Textual rites were also changed, including the spelling of Jesus’ name.
While these changes may appear superficial, it’s crucial to understand that by the 17th century, Russia considered itself—and was considered by others—as the center of Orthodox Christianity, since most of the Balkans and Mediterranean were under Muslim rule. The traditions that had developed separately in Russia had become deeply intertwined with the notion of Christianity itself. This explains why millions of Russians responded to the changes with protest, dismay, and even suicide, leading to a schism that persists today.
‘Boyaryna Morozova’ by Vasily Surikov, 1884-7. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boyaryna_Morozova_(painting)
As Margaret McKibben writes, it’s easy to dismiss these believers as fanatics who failed to distinguish between mere symbolism and substance, but that “bypasses a chance to glimpse a world very different from the modern West.” The key to understanding the division is grasping how iconography functioned in the 17th century—even more so than today. Rituals and icons weren’t considered symbolic representations of something sacred, but were themselves sacred, sharing in the very essence of Orthodoxy.
From an Old Believer’s perspective, changing how many fingers are used to cross oneself isn’t merely changing a practice—it’s falling out of harmony with sacred and ancestral tradition. It represents a form of self-excommunication. It’s difficult to fully situate ourselves in that mentality. But recall Tolstoy, who, in War and Peace, relentlessly emphasized the folly of imagining ourselves—with the power of retrospect and all the “progress” of history—superior to our ancestors.
The reforms led to massive domestic conflict in Russia. As McKibben notes, “Reading portents of doom in the date 1666, millions concluded that the Final Days were at hand.” People who continued following the old rites were anathematized from the Orthodox Church, leading many to leave Russia proper for central Asia, Alaska, and Latvia—particularly Jekabpils.
Leaflet from ‘Morozov Apocalypse’, a Pomorian manuscript from c 1820, depicting a scene from the Book of Revelation
Old Believers in Latvia
The Old Believers’ legal status in Latvia evolved over time. During the 19th century, their position gradually improved through new legislation. After the 1905 Revolution, Tsar Nicholas II’s manifesto on religious freedom allowed Old Believers to build churches legally and establish formal congregations.
During the Soviet era, religious practice faced severe restrictions. Prayer houses were sometimes closed or destroyed, though communities rebuilt them when possible. The community’s decentralized structure helped maintain continuity during this difficult period.
Latvia currently hosts one of Europe’s largest Old Believer populations, with approximately 55,000 members concentrated primarily in Latgale. Major communities exist in Daugavpils, Rezekne, Jekabpils, Vilani, and Malta. The community spans multiple generations, from elderly members who experienced Soviet-era restrictions to younger people learning traditional practices. The European Union has supported preservation projects in Latgale focused on Old Believer heritage, including restoration of historical buildings.
The Grebenshchikov Old Believers’ House of Prayer is located at Mazā Krasta iela 73 in Riga’s Moscow District. Established no later than 1760, it is the oldest Old Believer congregation in the world and one of the largest, with approximately 25,000 worshippers. This community descended from Orthodox Christians who fled Russian persecution in the 17th century.
The Grebenshchikov community serves as both a worship center and guardian of Old Believer cultural heritage. It maintains a professional choir specializing in traditional chanting and historically operated an iconography workshop following Old Russian techniques. The current stone building replaced the original wooden structure in 1814.
The Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos features distinctive architectural elements, including a prominent golden dome. The interior follows traditional Old Believer design with separate sections for men and women, divided by a partition wall covered with icons.
Grebenshchikov Old Believers’ House of Prayer
Our Visit
Joolee and I attended a service yesterday. The kind older man guarding the gate gave us pamphlets and instructed us on proper conduct during the service. We briefly spoke with the young man who performed the service and a babushka in attendance. The hall itself was magnificent, adorned with hundreds of old icons.
Old Believers guard their traditions carefully, and for good reason. This isn’t to say they aren’t welcoming—rather, if you’re interested in experiencing this yourself, you’ll need to visit in person. Just make sure to ask the man at the gate about proper conduct. Though if you forget, he’ll undoubtedly find you!
Пока пока!
Laef, currently studying Russian at Liden & Denz, Riga
