Tēvocis Vaņa: A Culinary Journey into Slavic Culture

When someone takes an interest in Pushkin’s language, it’s often because they have been captivated by Russian culture. One of the first art forms that comes to mind is literature, with towering names such as Tolstoy, Dostoyevsky, and Chekhov. Of course, the latter being the author of numerous stories and plays, including the renowned Uncle Vanya. With that being said, why not deepen your immersion in Russian culture by exploring its gastronomy, within a setting evocative of this iconic work?

A Welcoming Façade and a Theatrical Interior

The restaurant Tēvocis Vaņa (Дя́дя Ва́ня / Uncle Vanya) offers this experience and more! From the outside, you can sense the warmth that radiates from the entrance. Its rosy façade provides a charming contrast with the warm beige, red, and black tones of the interior. As you pass through the front door, a staircase to your right leads to a bar that, hopefully, will reopen soon. Step into the main room, though, and you’ll find yourself enveloped in an atmosphere worthy of a novel or the stage of a theatre. Large tables are set for families and groups, while smaller tables which are nestled between bookshelves offer a more private dining experience.

An Atmosphere of Literature and Nostalgic Melodies

It’s rare to find an atmosphere that’s so cosy, yet all the while elegant. The books that line the walls are predominantly in Russian, and you can leaf through them if you’re tempted to practice this captivating 

language. The walls are adorned with vintage family portraits and archival photographs of Riga’s landmarks, along with wallpaper that contrasts the typical ambiance of classic restaurants. To enhance the theatrical aesthetic, a secluded table at the back of the room is hidden behind black curtains, providing an ideal spot for hosting a dinner show. Beyond the visual elements, however, this unique atmosphere is elevated through music—20th-century Russian songs  transport you to another era. Naturally, this sensory immersion continues with the menu.

The menu boasts a vibrant array of dishes from all across various Slavic cultures. As the chef, Андрей Шматченко (Andrei Shmatshenko), explains, these are dishes “from eastern Russia to Eastern Europe.” You’ll find selections like the “Package from the Caucasus” and the famous “Kiev cutlet.” Baltic flavours are also featured prominently, with a wide selection of fish and meats: pike (Щука), salmon (Лосось), zander (судак), and more, each prepared in a variety of ways. But sturgeon (осётр), which is highlighted by the chef, exemplifies the pride of the entire restaurant. You can even encounter dishes with unique and unexpected twists. If you’re  like me, a Frenchman accustomed to Atlantic seafood with the occasional craving for oysters, you’ll be pleased to find them here, too. 

A Menu Celebrating Slavic Traditions

Of course, if you’re in Riga, you’re here to savour all the local specialities. Fortunately, that’s also something the restaurant is committed to; all ingredients are of Latvian origin and sourced from local markets. Just imagine sampling red or black caviar (икра), varienikis (вареники), a type of ravioli filled with meat or cabbage, smoked fish, or solianka soup (солянка)! The chef is clear: “the most timeless and traditional

dishes are the finest,” which is why he recommends beginning with the signature Russian salad (оливье), then Ukrainian borscht (борщ), followed by pelmenis (пельмени) and, naturally, sturgeon. All of these excellent dishes cement this place as a genuine crossroads of Slavic culinary traditions.  For dessert, opt for a condensed milk dish, such as медовик (Miedavik), and you’re sure to make the right choice.

A Unique Sensory Experience

For my part, I was fortunate to enjoy some delicious pelmenis filled with beef and pork, topped with the unavoidable smetana (сметана), all accompanied by an unfamiliar spirit:  Hrenovuha (хреновуха). This potent 40-proof spirit, served in a small glass, awakened my taste buds perfectly before savoring my first bites. According to Slavic tradition, it’s common to drink a strong spirit as an accompaniment, often vodka, sometimes flavored with garlic or pepper. A non-alcoholic drink called mors (морс) sweetened the experience with its blend of various berries, creating a pleasing contrast. This experience is just a taste of what the restaurant has to offer, but it’s enough to make me want to return to explore more of the dishes and drinks. I hope this will spark your own thirst for discovery and that soon, you may even find yourself at Tēvocis Vaņa!

This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)