Four of Riga’s most romantic bars and cafes
It is spring here in Riga. The rows of flowers in the central parks have come into bloom; the buildings, once oppressed by the grey winter, are once more colourful in evening sun, and the streets of Old Town are busy again. Yes, there is romance in the air.
The novelist Graham Greene described 20th century Riga as the ‘Paris of the North’. That seems even more appropriate today, for whereas the rest of Europe suffers the advent of cheap aviation, Riga remains somewhat undiscovered and still, even in the height of summer, tourists remain a minority.
It is also a well kept secret that the natives of this land are some of the most attractive people in the world, according my thorough surveys conducted at Liden & Denz (participants to remain anonymous). It was a happy day last summer when a Nadezhda, our wonderful teacher, issued instructions for securing a date with a local. We were advised to sit in a part, well dressed, with a copy of Tolstoy and a small rescue dog. I never did find a small rescue dog.
In this post I’ll share with you two cafes and two bars popular with locals and, in my opinion, ideal for a date. And hey, if you find yourself alone, all the more reason to go; these four spots are also ideal places to apply Nadia’s dating advice. Take a book, do your best to borrow someone’s dog, and enjoy the romance that is best and most intimate of them all; solitude, in a foreign city.
Parunāsim kafe’teeka, Old Town
Self-described as Riga’s ‘most romantic cafe’, Parunāsim kafe’teeka is located in the old town, in what was the warehouse of the St James Cathedral. Walk slowly through Vērmanes darzs park, past the National Opera Theatre and over the canal next to the Freedom Monument. Then walk the cobblestone streets of Old Town. Parunāsim is right near the Three Bothers, Riga’s oldest medieval house(s).
The cafe has two floors, both featuring bare brick walls, antique wooden furniture, a piano and, always, French jazz music uttered gently from dim corners. There is also a courtyard which looks up to the spire of St Jacob’s Catholic Church.
The cakes- Napoleon, Honey Cake, Velvet cake, among others- are all homemade and well paired with a coffee, a loose-leaf tea, or, and my recommendation, a glass of Italian Rose.
This cafe is ideal for any visiting poet. The name (Parunāsim) means ‘let’s talk’, but you’re mistaken if you imagine a conversation requires two.
A note- with limited tables, you might want to book ahead on weekends and during summer.
Kūkotava, Centrs
Three minutes and less than 300m from Liden and Denz, Kūkotava in Centrs serves the best Napoleon cake in Riga. It is also a welcomed exception in a city not distinguished by the quality of its coffee.
In steadfast contrast to some of the Coffee chains made popular by the availability of power sockets and WiFi, Kūkotava is actually a nice place to sit. Like Parunāsim, all of the pastries are homemade. There are dozens to choose from, both sweet, and savoury.
It’s proximity to old town, and Liden & Denz, makes it convenient without inviting too many tourists. For students at L&D, It’s a good option for the twenty-minute break between morning and late morning class.
Napoleons at Kūkotava
Kanepes Kultūras centrs
True to the Eastern European ethos, finding a drink in Riga is not difficult; there is a bar on every corner. A quick search on google maps yields hundreds, but, you’re wondering, which is the best? If my vote decided the matter, I’d cast it in the direction of Kultūras centrs, in the quiet centre.
This is the most eccentric bar in Riga, at least in Summer, when you’ll be hard pressed to find a table. I discovered it when, on a Bolt scooter in the bike lane on the way home from class, a man with a cat on his shoulder cycled next to me and asked me if I liked music. I said yes, and he gave me the coordinates. Thereafter I saw this man every time I visited Kultūras centrs, sometimes with one, sometimes with two cats. Perhaps they were drawn to the huge statute of a Lion which rests in the courtyard.
The house is over 100 years old. It has been a place for Aristocratic soirees, a refuge for artists during the 20th century, a dormitory, a music school, and in 2009 it was transformed into what it is today; a bar, a performance centre, a “social entrepreneurship. Set in a green building just at the heart of the city center (inhabited by) musicians, artists, bohemians and radical conversationalists.”
At Kultūras centrs you’ll find great beer- local and international- impromptu performances which are difficult to interpret, fragrances of uncertain legal status, and above all an abundance of youth. It is a favourite on the student circuit, and busy enough to make solitude comfortable.
M/Darbrīnica
There are many of other bars which I could have listed here— Tallinas square, not least, which other than Rimi has the cheapest beer in Riga (though ‘romantic’ would be pushing it). Others include Aleponija (an old-style Latvian house) and Armoury bar in old town, popular with American tourists due to the ready availability of decommissioned guns, country music, and good beer.
M/Darbrīnica, an artistic centre similar to Kanepes, takes the spot. It’s a two storey house converted into an art gallery and bar, hosting local artists, primarily in the genres of jazz and blues. Adjacent is a large outdoor courtyard, where in summer performances are held. Located well outside the centre (about twenty minutes by bus), this place has a distinctly local feel.
Check the schedule and book a table for one, or more.
Concluding thoughts
One aspect of Riga often missed by tourists is the vibrant and creative culture of the youth; a bohemian artistic scene which contrasts, quite strongly, an introversion apparent, but illusory, in the city centre, where most locals go only to work. This is especially true of Kanepes Kultūras centrs and M/Darbrīnica, abuzz with the city’s youth.
As for securing a date, fortune favours the bold. Fortune, also, charters its own course. So, at risk of sounding auto-biographical, take a novel, forget the dog, and enjoy a coffee, or a beer, in Riga. Romantic Riga.
Увидимся скорo!
Laef, currently studying Russian at Liden & Denz Riga
