The Russian banya experience

All about the banya

There could be few things more Russian than the banya. Banya literally translates as bath. But it’s so much more than a bath. It’s a place where one cleanses the body but also cleanses the soul. You get clean from the inside out. It’s a total experience. You eat, drink, get hot, get cold, socialize with friends, and yes, suffer. But the result is coming out on the other side a bit of a different person, a bit more of your Slavic self.

Usachovskiye Bani in Moscow

My favorite banya in Moscow is Usachyovskiуе Bani, banya of choice by none other than the legendary astronaut and first in space Yurii Gargarin. I’ve asked other banya goers why they choose this banya over others they’ve visited and they all say the same things “we just like it here.” And I know what they mean. It’s cleaned frequently and meticulously, well-managed, with nothing done too fancy (in contrast to the over-the-top opulence of Moscow’s Sanduny Bani featured in the classic Soviet film “The Irony of Fate”), but done right. The cafe serves a mighty fine borscht with rye bread and olivier salad. And my personal favorite feature is the hourly ritual of the changing of the steam.

Enjoy your steam

For about 10 minutes everyone must leave the banya while the steam is changed. During the period the guys line up outside the steam room (“parilka”) and wait to encounter the sensation of the fresh new steam enhanced with natural aromatic oils. There are some classic scents like birch and lavender and then some more unusual ones such as radish and garlic. When one enters the steam room the banya attendant (“banshik”) waits until everyone fills the room and performs a ritual of moving the air around with a large wooden fan that looks like a pizza pie spatula. The ritual when the banshik moves the fresh hot air around is quite intense, and it’s not uncommon to hear grown, strong Russian men moaning and groaning from the waves of heat hitting their body.

How hot is the Russian banya?

My first experience at the Russian banya was in Riga, Latvia three years ago. Having gone to several Russian banyas since then, I will say that while the heat levels vary considerably, overall Russian banyas are absurdly hot. Someone used to a western spa or sauna may have to build a tolerance to it. Some tough guys walk in and walk out after just a couple minutes. But then there are the banya champs who sit on the top row, where it is the hottest, and hang out there nonchalantly for 20 minutes like the extreme heat is not a thing at all. But no matter how long you last in there, the main thing is to listen to your body and go to the plunge pool afterwards.

How cold is the plunge pool?

When I asked how cold the plunge pool was, the banshik told me about 40 degrees (6 degrees celsius). Most guys just take a quick dip. I try to stay in as long as I can to counteract the extreme heat of the steam room. The result of going from these two extremes is my skin starts to look blotchy. This is due to blood vessels expanding and bringing blood to the surface of the skin .

Russian banya essentials

What does one need to bring to the banya? A felt or wool hat. Slippers. Not one but two towels, one to wrap yourself in during your banya session and one to dry yourself off with after. Swimsuit is optional. All these items is available at the front desk for a fee. But most importantly, one needs to bring a tolerance for extremes. A day pass to this banya costs 4,500 rubles, or about 60 dollars. Food at the cafe isn’t included.

The banya is true total-body Slavic refreshment.