How should I spend a rainy day in Riga?
(view from a Khrushchevka in Purvciems)
“Do not be angry with the rain; it simply does not know how to fall upwards.”
– Vladmir Nabokov
It’s raining in Riga. According to some sources, Riga has, on average, 142 rainfall days. That is above the continental average. That means you need a plan for the days you’ve exhausted your half-engaging novel, and too impersonal personal diary. I very much doubt that you are yet writing letters, at least like the one’s Dostoevsky was prone to write during a spell of bad weather;
The rainy days, though, are unbearable… I do not let my time go by for naught; I have made out the plots of three tales and two novels… While I was working in freedom I was always obliged to diversify my labours with amusements; but here the excitement consequent on my work has to evaporate unaided. My health is good, except for my haemorrhoids, and the shattered state of my nerves, which keeps up a constant crescendo.
F. Dostoevsky. To his brother Michael, July 1849.
Though perhaps, like me, you’re here not for bliss, but for knowledge. Knowledge of Russian language, of a foreign culture, of yourself within a foreign culture, persons and customs unfamiliar. If that is so, then these days must, likewise, be seized and exploited, like all days abroad.
Despair not; Riga, being accustomed to this weather, is not short of accomodation. This post contains some activities which you might not have considered on a rainy day.
The Latvian National Museum of Art
This is one of the most beautiful buildings in Riga. Built between 1903-1905, it houses the largest collection of art in Latvia (approx 65,000 pieces), the main exhibition halls house Latvian/Baltic art from the 18th century to present, including sculptures, paintings, and relics.
But that’s information you can find on the Museum’s website.
What isn’t so clear is that the Museum also has a wonderful library with desks and chairs for visitors to use. Demarcated by small signs which are seemingly ignored by the multitude, the library, established in 1905, houses approximately 30,000 books on culture and art, some of them as old or older than the building itself. It has only recently been opened to all visitors on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday (12:00-17:00) but, despite this, my encounters there have been with wandering academics or curious students of art. That makes it an ideal place to rest, read, write, on those rainy days, taking pause, as required, to walk the vast halls of the Museum which are similarly subdued compared to similar venues across the continent.
Falkors bouldering gym
This was a popular afternoon destination for students in my class over winter. Enjoying the title, ‘largest bouldering gym in the Baltics’ (perhaps not a metric which says much in itself!), this rock-climbing gym in Vidzemes has all the equipment and information required for experienced climbers, and complete beginners. ‘Gym’, in most cases, is misleading; there is far more talking and ‘rest’ than there is climbing. But that’s as it should be.
You can reach Falkors from Liden and Denz on the Number 1 tram in about 20 minutes. It also provides a great opportunity to see some of Riga’s soviet heritage.
RIMI Olympic Centre
RIMI is one of Riga’s two main swimming complexes (there are many more minor venues), the other being Kipsalis Swimming Center.
This centre is enormous, deceptively so. Built in 2005, it covers 24,000 square meters. In addition to the large and small swimming pools, there is a strength hall, gym, basketball court, indoor football pitch, second basketball court, two handball courts, a beach volleyball hall, a tennis court, a boxing hall, and- my personal favourite- a cafe that might rival LIDO. There are also many saunas and spas.
Though somewhat expensive (11-15 euro, depending on when), RIMI is a great place to exercise in the rain (or sun, lest you announce your foreignness by running on the streets), and is only 20 minutes from Liden and Denz on the number 11 tram.
Shoyu Japanese restaurant
“When ramen is served, start eating it straightaway. The basic philosophy of Japanese table manners is to show appreciation to the host by eating what is served when it’s at its best quality. Waiting and letting the noodles get soggy is not good.” (from the Restaurant’s website)
Michelin listed, Shoyu is Riga’s best ramen restaurant. In addition to the many arrangements of homemade noodles, Shoyu serves rice bowls, a selection of traditional homemade Japanese desserts, sake and, at the time of writing ‘blue matcha cube’.
Reasonably priced (about 25 eur pp if you’re conservative), Shoyu is located in the quiet centre, 18 minutes on the number 11 tram from Liden and Denz.
Forum cinema
Last night a friend and I saw Mission Impossible: The Final Reckoning, having before dined at Shoyu in the quiet centre and, afterwards, riding home on Bolt Scooters with the theme music playing out of my pocket.
This theatre, located near Liden and Denz and the old town, was opened in 2003 and has 14 auditoriums including the ‘largest screen in Northern Europe’ (the ‘PEPSI screen’). The claim, ‘best movie adventure’, for all its translated gloss, is justified; the cinema has a bar, and the tickets are reasonably priced (around 12 euro for a student).
Testament to Riga’s linguistic diversity, most films are shown in English with Latvian and Russian subtitles, though pictures in Russian and Latvian are also shown. Find the website here.
P.s., Mission Impossible on the Pepsi screen, especially the scenes with Russian bad-guys, I could not recommend to you more!
Brooklyn Pub and Whiskey Room
If you’ve followed the sequence of this list, then what better place to wind down your evening than Brooklyn Pub on Lāčplēša iela.
As I remarked in a recent article, Riga has a healthy population of bars and pubs. Brooklyn Pub, a 6min walk from L&D, however, is suited better than others to a rainy day. Dimly lit and set below street level, the Pub is often quite during the day, meaning if you’re so inclined you can take a novel or notebook with you and pass time listening to rock classics and half-hearted debates in local languages.
Final thoughts
These are but a few of the activities and venues potentially overlooked on a rainy day in Riga. I recommend you follow the order I have set out though, if you’re particularly desirous, given you can finish a pint in 8 minutes, you could go to the pub first on your twenty minute break between first and second class. Save that relief for days focused on verbs of motion. Tолько не говори учителю, куда ты ходил на перемене!
Ilya Repin. Studying for an Exam (1864).
Увидимся скорo.
Laef, currently studying Russian at Liden & Denz Riga.
